The construction behind the word
A jacket earns the word through three construction features working together. First, a barrier: a membrane or coating that liquid water cannot pass under the pressures rain and contact create. Second, sealed seams: every stitch line is a row of needle holes, and waterproof garments cover them with heat-bonded tape. Third, protected openings: storm flaps or water-resistant zips, adjustable cuffs, and a hood that closes around the face.
Barrier integrity, seam sealing and protected openings all matter. Missing protection can provide a water-entry route; it does not establish that every garment leaks in every sustained-rain situation.
Why there is no single definition
ISO 811 measures a fabric specimen’s resistance to water penetration under pressure; it does not by itself establish finished-jacket performance. Other standards and manufacturer garment tests address different scopes. Check what a claim and its cited method actually cover.
Gore, whose name is most attached to the word, takes the position that waterproofness is a whole-garment property. Its public FAQ and its own writing on the subject state that it tests and certifies finished garments — fabric, seams and construction together — rather than publishing a fabric number. That is a more honest framing than a hangtag figure, and it is also commercially convenient for Gore; both things are true at once.
What waterproof does not mean
Water can enter through openings, and moisture can accumulate when exertion, humidity and the clothing system limit its escape. Surface wet-out can also reduce comfort without proving membrane failure.
The useful question is therefore not 'is it waterproof?' but 'how is it built, and was it built for the conditions I face?'. A taped-seam jacket with a real barrier, a hood that adjusts, and venting you can open will keep you drier than a higher-numbered jacket that lacks them.